Peaceful, placid, boundless beauty⊠These arenât words that typically describe an international border crossingâunless youâre talking about Albertaâs Waterton Lakes National Park, where you can float back and forth between the United States and Canada. Glistening alpine waters and Rocky Mountain peaks take the place of lines and duty-free shops at this one-of-a-kind scenic wonder, which connects to Montanaâs Glacier National Park.Â
Hiking trails weave through evergreen forests, linking the two countriesâ landscapes in the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. Grizzlies and bighorn sheep roam the rocky slopes. Down on the water, Keith Robinson captains the historic M.V. International tour boat across the Canada-U.S. boundary and back again, his passengers bubbling with excitement.
Waterton Shoreline Cruise Co.
âTheyâre in disbelief,â says Robinson, whose younger brothers also help with the familyâs tour boat business. âIf you arenât paying attention, you wouldn’t even know itâs a border.â The Waterton Shoreline Cruise Co., owned by the Robinson family for more than six decades, operates in the Peace Park, which was established in 1932 to promote goodwill and conservation efforts in the shared ecosystem. Both countries collaborate to monitor wildlife, manage invasive species, and handle forest fires. âThereâs such a strong relationship,â he says. âNature sees no boundaries.â
Waterton Lakes National Park covers roughly 195 square milesâand it seems like you can see it all from Bearâs Hump, reached by a short but strenuous hike thatâs worth every heaving breath. Chipmunks chitter around the bald summit as travelers marvel at the vast panorama unfurling at their feet. Waterton Lake stretches blue in both directions, with Americaâs purple mountains rising to the south. Problems shrink into insignificance. For a mere one-hour climb, the reward is immense.
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Bearâs Hump is such a dramatic rise to 700-plus feet that those afraid of heights might turn back halfway. Plan to meet up later for afternoon tea at the Prince of Wales Hotel, which opened in 1927. Perched high above the lake on a windswept promontory, the Swiss chalet-style lodge feels like a clifftop castle. Kilt-clad servers bring out tiers of delectables: dainty lemon cakes, dilled salmon sandwiches, and currant scones with clotted cream. Sip strawberry green tea or creamy Earl Grey, pinkies up.
Shilo Urban/Travel + Leisure
Youâll need the caffeine for kayaking on Cameron Lake, an intimate contrast to Waterton Lakeâs magnificent expanse. A medley of languages echoes off the spring-fed basin as travelers try rowing or stand-up paddleboarding. You can also rent canoes and pedal boats during the summer months, or simply wander the waterfront trails with all the families and happy-faced dogs.Â
But donât miss your boarding call back at Waterton village for the M.V. International. The boat can take you to the trailheads for Goat Haunt or Crypt Lake (both spectacular hikes), but the Canada-U.S. border cruise is most popular. The 75-minute loop carries you across the international boundary, marked by a strip of land running up the mountains on either side. Since the vessel doesnât dock in America, you donât even need to bring your passport (but you will if youâre hiking into Montana).
EJRodriquez/Adobe Stock
As the boat drifts along the border, watch for eagles overhead and elk along the shoreline. âWe really take pride in sharing this International Peace Park with travelers from all over the globe,â says Robinson. These days, heâs introducing the park to an audience closer to home: his two sons. âIt’s incredibly important to me to be able to have them see this place and realize how special it is.â
For the true treasure of Waterton Lakes National Park goes far beyond its timeless grandeur; itâs the vision of shared natural spaces and peaceful boundaries that offer common ground to us all.
How to Plan Your Trip
Where to Stay
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With green gables and timbered balustrades, the Prince of Wales Hotel oozes storybook charm. If youâd rather stay closer to the action, Bayshore Inn & Spa offers lakefront balconies and is steps away from dining, shopping, and the marina.Â
Where to Eat
Linger for hours on the patio at Lakeside Chophouse, clinking glasses of Vinho Verde and watching deer saunter by. Indulge in Alberta beef and red pepper baked brie as twilight falls. Afterward, stroll over to Thirsty Bear Kitchen + Bar for a Bearface Whisky nightcap and live music.
Where to Shop
Watertonâs walkable main street is lined with gift shops like Evergreen Boutique, where you can browse locally crafted souvenirs, Indigenous artwork, and clothing from independent Canadian brands. Nearby Lost Art Jewelry sells handmade baubles by a master goldsmith.
How to Get There
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Waterton Lakes National Park is located 167 miles south of Calgary International Airport (YYC), approximately a three-hour drive.Â

