This Car-free Swiss Town Has Pollution-free Air, the World’s Highest Glacier Palace, and Views of 38 Peaks

Summer in the city has become sticky and unbearable. What was once the season of patios and long days has increasingly turned into one of heat advisories, wildfire smoke, and smog alerts. A couple of summers ago, I was invited to visit Zermatt, a car-free Swiss town nestled in the shadow of the Matterhorn—and it couldn’t have felt further from the chaos of modern summer.

Zermatt is a pollution-free alpine escape, accessible via a scenic train that winds its way up through the mountains. The air is fresh, the pace is calm, and the views are unreal. While Switzerland is often associated with ski season, summer is an equally great time to visit, too. You’ll find fewer crowds, lush, green trails like the 5-Seenweg (a five-lake hike with Matterhorn views), and even summer skiing on a glacier.

But what really blew me away was the sheer scale of the panoramas. From one platform at more than 9,824 feet, you can see 38 peaks and 14 glaciers spanning Switzerland, Italy, and France. Zermatt is also home to the world’s highest glacier palace, literally carved into the ice.

It’s a view that stirred up my earliest memories of Switzerland. I grew up in Geneva, where I took for granted the bucolic pastures, cowbells echoing across the hills, and day trips to Chamonix to escape the lack of air conditioning in our apartment. We’d ride cable cars until the world disappeared below, eat tasty chocolate gelato from the corner store, and unwrap Kinder Surprise eggs—milk chocolate with a toy inside, a child’s dream. Zermatt brought all of that back: the alpine quiet, the mountain air, and a rare sense of wonder.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Grand Hotel Zermatterhof

It’s easy to imagine Wes Anderson taking notes here—his pastel-perfect Grand Budapest Hotel could well have been inspired by the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, a similarly romantic alpine retreat. Built in 1879 by enterprising townsfolk, the Zermatterhof has been welcoming royalty, celebrities, and intrepid mountaineers for nearly a century and a half. Inside, its 77 rooms and suites blend chalet coziness with old-world elegance, many offering postcard-worthy views of the Matterhorn.

The Omnia

The Omnia is for those wanting to indulge in the luxurious side of Zermatt. Perched on the edge of a rocky plateau above the village, its sleek, ultra-modern rooms open onto balconies with views of the rooftops below and the Matterhorn beyond. There’s nothing like stepping outside in the morning to watch fog curl away from the peaks as you sip a steamy cup of coffee. A Michelin-starred restaurant, a full-service spa, and a well-equipped gym make it tempting to stay put, though the slopes are just a short stroll away.

Cervo Mountain Resort

For a true ski-in, ski-out resort, you’ll want the Cervo Mountain Resort, according to Morgan Bryant, at Scott Dunn Travel. She said, “It immediately feels like home with its warm, alpine-modern decor and genuinely welcoming staff. Wellness seekers will love its serene spa offerings.”

Best Things to Do

Ski on a glacier.

Shredding powder isn’t just for winter in Zermatt. You can carve fresh lines year-round on the Theodul Glacier, Europe’s highest ski area atop the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. Beyond the obvious bragging rights (how many of your friends can say they’ve slalomed on a glacier?), you’ll get jaw-dropping views across the Alps. Take a gondola or cable car up to Trockener Steg, where you can rent gear or book a private lesson. Arrive early—even at this altitude, the snow softens into slush by midday.

Hike the 5-Seenweg.

When I picture hiking, I usually imagine blister-inducing treks, dehydrated meals, and a tent I don’t know how to pitch. The 5-Seenweg is none of that, and that’s why I love it. This gentle, mostly downhill trail meanders past five crystal-clear alpine lakes, each perfectly framing the Matterhorn like nature’s own postcard. Even better? You can take a cable car up to the start (and back down, if your legs insist), so you can focus on soaking in the views, not nursing sore feet.

See the world’s highest glacial palace.

Glaciers aren’t just tragic Titanic scenery—in Zermatt, they’re the main event. Hop the Matterhorn Glacier Ride cable car to the Klein Matterhorn, perched at about 12,500 feet. From here, you can gaze across Italy and France, spotting 38 peaks and 14 other glaciers. The real magic happens when you descend roughly 50 feet inside the glacier itself. The Glacier Palace is a frozen wonderland of glittering ice tunnels, intricate sculptures, and even an ice slide. It’s part art exhibit, part natural marvel—and entirely unforgettable.

Best Shopping

Even off the slopes, Zermatt knows how to do luxury. Along Bahnhofstrasse, the village’s car-free main street, you’ll find a collection of watch and jewelry brands like Moncler, Piaget, Chopard, and Rolex. Whether you’re here to splurge or just press your nose to the glass, it’s prime people-watching—ski jackets that cost more than your flight included.

Best Restaurants

Alpine Gourmet Prato Borni

The Michelin-starred Alpine Gourmet Prato Borni is located inside the storied Grand Hotel Zermatterhof. The menu here celebrates local game and fish—think venison, duck, and pikeperch—alongside comfort fare like dumplings, gnocchi, and fondue, reimagined with global touches like dashi, caviar, and truffle. It’s Swiss regional fare, elevated for a modern, adventurous palate.

Bazaar

If you need a break from Switzerland’s beloved carb-on-carb cuisine, head to Bazaar at Cervo Mountain Resort, a Bib Gourmand winner recognized for standout quality at a fair price. This stylish Middle Eastern restaurant and all-day cafe serves everything from shakshuka and spicy chai porridge in the morning to meze platters and craft cocktails come evening. It’s the kind of place you can linger after a day on the trails, swapping hiking boots for something a little more polished.

Loft & Lodge

While you can order à la carte at Loft & Lodge, the real draw is the Omnia Experience, a five-course vegetarian tasting menu that you can customize with fish or meat additions. Each dish is seasonal, artfully plated, and balanced so you leave satisfied, but not overstuffed. The beverage pairings are just as thoughtfully crafted, with wines, teas, or zero-proof options designed to complement every bite. Set in The Omnia’s sleek yet cozy dining room, it’s an elevated meal that still feels warm and personal.

Best Time to Visit

While you may associate Switzerland with winter activities, June through September is the best time to visit Zermatt. You can skip the tourist crush, breathe in the crisp, pollution-free mountain air, and even try once-in-a-lifetime glacier skiing. Days are sunny and comfortably warm, while evenings cool off just enough for a sweater—perfect for lingering on a terrace with a glass of local wine. Wildflowers blanket the meadows, and you might just feel compelled to twirl in your own “Sound of Music” moment—we wouldn’t blame you.

How to Get There

You can fly direct to Zurich from most major U.S. cities, including New York, Boston, Chicago, San Francisco, Miami, Philadelphia, Dallas, and Atlanta. From Zurich Airport, hop on Switzerland’s efficient SBB rail system, which departs every hour and whisks you toward the Alps in just over three hours. Since Zermatt is car-free, you’ll switch to a 12-minute shuttle in the village of Täsch that glides right into town. Don’t sleep on the train ride in—it tunnels through the Alps in a breathtaking journey that will have you filming nonstop.

Cities and Neighborhoods to Visit

Zermatt itself is compact and walkable, but the surrounding region offers plenty to explore. Take the Gornergrat Railway for sweeping views of the peaks and glaciers, or head up to Furi for hiking trails and the Glacier Paradise cable car to Klein Matterhorn. Nearby hamlets like Findeln and Zmutt are perfect for a rustic lunch in a traditional mountain hut, while the charming town of Brig, just down the valley, makes an easy day trip by train.

How to Get Around

Take advantage of this car-free town to stretch your legs, but wear your most comfortable walking shoes. Zermatt is compact, scenic, and blissfully free of traffic noise, so strolling between cafes, shops, and trailheads is half the fun. Many hotels send little electric trolleys to meet guests at the train station, ferrying both you and your luggage to your door—a welcome perk if you’ve overpacked. For those with accessibility needs, electric taxis and minibuses are available through your hotel or the tourist office. No car rental is needed here; the train is your ticket in, and your feet do the rest.