The Perfect Trip Through Istria, Europe’s Unsung Food Destination

Istria—a region that includes parts of Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia—is a fascinating cultural hub that I love to recommend to travelers looking for a culinary-focused trip. Taste delicious wines, hunt for truffles, and visit innovative restaurants on this journey through a relatively compact area. Most of the highlights in this culinary triangle are within a two-hour drive from each other—and train service is limited—so driving is the best way to explore the region. Here, my recommendations for a culinary journey through Istria.

Northeast Italy

The first stop is the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of Italy. Stay in the capital city of Trieste, defined by Italian, Austro-Hungarian, and Slavic influences. Together, these flavors create a unique local cuisine that ranges from fresh seafood to hearty soups. Then, drive north about an hour to the Collio wine region, where a host of white grape varietals—such as Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, and Sauvignon Blanc—are widely grown. Many local winemakers here practice organic or biodynamic methods, and there’s a focus on low-intervention techniques. For a special experience, visit Tenuta Borgo Conventi for private tastings and tours where you can get intel directly from winemakers on the vineyard.

Slovenia

It’s a short drive from Trieste to Slovenia, which is full of restaurants committed to sourcing local ingredients and working with small-scale farmers who prioritize sustainability. Chef Ana Roš of the three-Michelin-starred Hiša Franko catapulted to fame after being featured on Chef’s Table in 2016 and being awarded World’s Best Female Chef by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants the following year. Inspired by her ethos, a new wave of young chefs is reimagining Slovenian food in Ljubljana, where the capital’s creative spirit and close ties to nature have made it a hub for experimentation and innovation.

Explore this burgeoning gastronomic culture at Odprta kuhna, a lively food market in Pogačar Square, Ljubljana, that runs every Friday from spring into fall. Here, more than 50 vendors—from renowned chefs to street-food stars—gather to showcase Slovenian classics and international-inspired dishes. For a seated meal, check out Aftr, a small, colorful bistro by chef Jorg Zupan that offers shareable plates with bold flavors and international influences.

Croatia

To end the trip, head south into Croatia’s heart-shaped Istrian peninsula. This patchwork of medieval hill towns and coastal fishing villages offers rustic meals, where the food scene is less about reinvention and more about letting top-quality ingredients speak for themselves.

Award-winning olive oil, prized white truffles, air-dried pršut, and wild asparagus are everywhere here—and there is often a hands-on experience attached to each meal. Partake in a truffle hunt with trained dogs through the forest of Motovun, visit a goat farm like Kumparička to sample local cheeses, and taste olive oil as you might a fine wine at Chiavalon, a family owned farm. As for where to stay, I recommend accommodation in the coastal town of Rovinj or at the country estate Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery.

Tia Lovisa Moreira is a member of Travel + Leisure’s A-List and specializes in trips to Croatia and Slovenia. You can create a tailor-made itinerary with Lovisa Moreira at [email protected].