Inside Passage, Alaska, Travel Guide

As I gazed out the tiny window of the 10-passenger floatplane, wearing bulky headphones to drown out the turbine engine, the staggering 1,500-square-mile Juneau Icefield came into view. I peered down at the massive glaciers with electric blue crevasses. This was one of Alaska’s Inside Passage adventures that would stick with me.

The Inside Passage draws travelers interested in outdoor adventure, wildlife, charming coastal towns, and Indigenous culture. Located in southeastern Alaska, about 80 percent of the area is in the Tongass National Forest—the largest national forest in the United States. The expansive terrain not only features glaciers, but also scenic waterfalls, temperate rain forest, picturesque fjords, and an abundance of wildlife. Keep your eyes open for bears, whales, moose, mountain goats, seals, and bald eagles (their heads look like white golf balls in the trees).

There’s no shortage of outdoor activities, including kayaking, boating, hiking, and fishing. The region is also rich in Indigenous culture and history, home to the Tlingit, Haida, Eyak, and Tsimshian Alaskan Native people. Their skilled artistry can be seen in colorful totem poles and intricately woven baskets found throughout the alluring coastal towns.

Many arrive by cruise ship, which allows you to cover large distances in a short amount of time. If you’re visiting the Inside Passage, use this curated guide to help plan your trip.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Four Points by Sheraton Juneau

Conveniently located in historic downtown Juneau, Alaska’s capital, the Four Points by Sheraton Juneau offers comfortable guest rooms with ocean views and useful amenities, like complimentary Wi-Fi, a fitness center, and an on-site convenience store.

The Sitka Hotel

Just steps from Sitka Harbor and Crescent Bay, The Sitka Hotel offers water and mountain views, plus it’s walkable to downtown shops and restaurants. Dine at one of the nearby eateries or make a meal in your room thanks to the kitchenette with a mini-fridge, microwave, and stove.

Talon Lodge & Spa

Guests arrive by boat to this Alaskan lodge that offers unmatched fishing and outdoor adventures. After a day on the water or hiking in nature, relax on the sandy beach or indulge in a spa treatment. The beautiful setting in the Tongass National Forest is ideal for experiencing the Inside Passage.

Salmon Falls Fishing Resort

Set off on a guided fishing adventure at this all-inclusive resort not far from Ketchikan. After making a catch, relax on the patio or by the firepit, listen to live music, or play yard games. End the day with a fresh Alaskan dinner at the Timbers Restaurant & Lounge.

Historic Skagway Inn

The host innkeepers of this bed-and-breakfast warmly welcome their guests with cozy rooms named after women who were part of the Klondike gold rush, farm- and sea-to-table meals at Olivia’s Bistro, and top-notch service. Ask for their input on hiking the Chilkoot Trail. They’ll even let you borrow bear spray.

Best Things to Do

Glacier Point Wilderness Safari

After a ferry trip, a bus ride, a short hike, and a paddle across a river and lake, the view of Davidson Glacier is worth the effort. This is remote Alaska at its finest. The six-hour excursion from Skagway allows travelers to experience the wilderness and wildlife firsthand—by water and land.

Skagway White Pass Railroad Summit Excursion

Board a vintage train in Skagway and take in the views on the journey to the 2,865-foot summit of White Pass. The nearly three-hour round-trip route passes scenic waterfalls, glaciers, and historic sites of the 1898 Klondike Trail. There are also multiday train tours throughout Alaska.

Saxman Native Village

Learn about the culture and traditions of the Indigenous Tlingit people at this native village near Ketchikan. I found the traditional song and dance in the Clan House to be powerful and enlightening. Leave time to meet Indigenous artists in the Carving House and discover the meaning of totem poles at Totem Park.

Skagway Dogsledding Tour

Observe the great outdoors from a wheeled dogsled pulled by trained huskies. The one-mile trail through the forest provides ample opportunity to photograph the picturesque backcountry. Cuddle with adorable husky puppies at the musher’s camp.

Five-glacier Seaplane Exploration

This 40-minute seaplane excursion offers a bird’s-eye view of five epic glaciers: the Norris, Hole-in-the-Wall, East and West Twin Glaciers, and Taku Glacier. I particularly enjoyed the pilot’s descriptive narration. The immenseness of the Juneau Icefield can only be appreciated from the air.

Best Restaurants

Tracy’s King Crab Shack, Juneau

This iconic restaurant, known for its Alaskan king crab, has two locations in Juneau. I loved the open-air waterfront dining at Shack 2, which large crab legs by the bucket. You’ll also find Alaskan golden king crab, red king crab, Dungeness crab, and snow crab on the menu.

Beak Restaurant

At this gratuity-free restaurant in Sitka, chef Renée—a 2023 James Beard best chef semifinalist—cooks locally sourced dishes with a focus on high-quality seafood and sustainability practices. You will feel as though you are dining at a friend’s home, with attentive service in a warm and welcoming environment.

Hump Island Oyster Company

Pull up a seat at the bar to taste oysters freshly harvested from some of the most pristine ocean water on the planet. Just north of Ketchikan, guests can tour Hump Island Oyster Company to learn about its commitment to using ethical and sustainable farming practices.

Timberline Bar & Grill

While visiting Juneau, I love hopping on the Goldbelt Tram to grab lunch at the rustic Timberline Bar & Grill. Dine on salads, burgers, or burritos with panoramic views of downtown Juneau and the surrounding area. Then, work off your meal by hiking the 4.5-mile Mount Roberts Trail back down.

Red Onion Saloon

Dining at this historic saloon is like stepping back in time to the gold rush era, when bustling dance halls, saloons, and brothels were popular in Skagway. Fill your belly with pizza and beer, followed by a “quickie” tour of the brothel museum.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Alaska‘s Inside Passage depends on what type of trip you’re planning and what you want to do while visiting. Like many travelers, I prefer to go during the warmer months (mid-June through mid-August ). If you’re visiting in August, pack a raincoat because it’s one of the wettest months. Summer is also when you’ll have the most daylight (typically around 18 hours), and it’s prime time for bear spotting due to salmon spawning. If seeing the northern lights is on your wish list, head there mid-August through mid-April, especially during the equinoxes. The winter months are less expensive and less crowded, but also colder and darker.

How to Get There

Approximately 1.68 million travelers arrived in Alaska via cruise ship in 2024, making it the most popular way to reach the 49th state. To access the Inside Passage by plane, fly into Juneau or Ketchikan International Airport. Alaska Airlines, which recently merged with Hawaiian Airlines, has two flights a day from Seattle to Juneau that take about 2.5 hours. If you’re not in a hurry, you can catch an Alaska Marine Highway System (AMHS) ferry from Bellingham, Washington, to Ketchikan, but it takes 38 hours. You can also drive the 1,700 miles along the Alaska-Canada Highway (ALCAN) in about the same time.

Places to Visit

Juneau

The capital city of Juneau is rich in history and Indigenous culture, plus it offers plenty of outdoor adventure, shopping, and dining. I love starting with the scenic Goldbelt Tram ride to Mount Roberts, followed by a visit to the Juneau-Douglas City Museum or Alaska State Museum. Time permitting, include a short hike at Mendenhall Glacier.

Ketchikan

Strolling along colorful and historic Creek Street is one of my favorite things to do in Ketchikan. Browse souvenir shops selling Indigenous wood carvings, caribou fur, and gold nugget jewelry; check out the lively Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show; or learn about Indigenous art and traditions at the Totem Heritage Center.

Sitka

The Tlingit people are the town’s original inhabitants, but the area is also known for its Russian heritage, displayed through the Russian Bishop’s House and St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral. The annual Sitka Music Festival, held in June, brings world-class chamber music. I also take advantage of the outdoor activities, including hiking, whale watching, and fishing.

Skagway

Skagway is steeped in gold rush history with plenty of related activities and exhibits. Hop on the train for a scenic journey to White Pass, visit the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, pan for gold, browse the gold rush cemeteries, or grab a meal at the bustling Red Onion Saloon.

How to Get Around

With few roads connecting the small towns and islands in Alaska’s Inside Passage, most visitors explore the area via small or large cruise ships. If you’re going on your own, you can get from town to town on ferries or seaplanes. Once in town, most places are within walking distance.

By Water: The AMHS has 15 ferry ports in the Inside Passage, making it an easy, affordable, and scenic way to get around, though not quickly. For long trips, travelers can book cabins with bunk beds and full bathrooms. Another way to access the area is by water taxi in and around places such as Gustavus, Ketchikan, and Wrangell.

By Air: Traveling by seaplane is not the most economical option, but it’s a relatively quick way to get from place to place where there are no roads. Plus, the views from above are breathtaking.