Venice is a bucket list destination for many, but as the city buckles under the crushing weight of overtourism, savvy travelers are beginning to look for alternatives. Enter Comacchio, a small town less than two hours away in Italy’s Emilia Romagna region. Located where the Po River Delta meets the Adriatic Coast, Comacchio is sometimes called the “Little Venice” because of its lagoon and canals.
Fulvio De Bonis, the A-List Travel Advisor behind Imago Artis Travel suggests going for “a stroll along its small alleys and canals, between glimpses and bridges (such as the Ponte dei Trepponti), which recall the metaphysical atmosphere of De Chirico’s paintings.”
Aside from the canals and bridges, the town is known for its culinary specialities, in particular eels. The fish market dates back to the 17th century and local fishermen still sell their daily catch there. According to De Bonis, a visit to the ancient Manifattura dei Marinati is a must. He calls it “a splendid example of industrial architecture, today a museum and workshop that preserves boats, equipment, documentaries and interviews that bear witness to the tradition of eel processing.”
The marinated eel produced in Comacchio is recognized as a Slow Food presidium. “Throughout the year you can watch the fish being marinated and in the months of November and December the scenic fireplaces are lit to roast and marinate the eel according to the ancient Comacchio technique,” he explains. This takes place in the Sala dei Fuochi, a massive room with 12 fireplaces, which is considered the heart of the complex. Marinated anchovies and sardines are also produced here.
Unsurprisingly, the town’s restaurants serve eel in more ways than you can imagine, but plenty of other seafood specialties appear on tables as well, from appetizers made with scallops or clams to spaghetti with crabs or risotto alla pescatore. Whatever you order, wash it down with some Bosco Eliceo, the crisp local white wine that falls under a DOC (Italy’s protected appellation system).
History buffs will want to visit the Ancient Delta Museum inside the Antico Ospedale degli Infermi, which contains the cargo of an ancient Roman ship discovered in Comacchio in 1981. For nature lovers, De Bonis suggests “a boat or bike excursion to the Salina di Comacchio and Valle Campo to discover the nesting places of numerous bird species, specifically the beautiful pink flamingos.”
