For so many years Devon was viewed as the poorer relation to Cornwall; its coastline less rugged and epic, its beaches smaller, less elemental. For us, the county was always just a cut-through to the treasure beyond and never a destination in itself. The fact that Cornwall was much further to get to somehow proved its remoter superiority. How wrong we were.
North Devon, in particular, is having a moment. Its 30km coastline is the UK’s first World Surfing Reserve, joining Australia’s Gold Coast and California’s Malibu and Santa Cruz as one of 12 officially chosen. Move over Newquay and Fistral beach.
But even if you’re not a surfer, north Devon beaches easily compete with Cornwall’s finest. Our first stop is Woolacombe and what takes us by surprise is the sheer scale of it. An epic expanse of golden sand – quarter of a mile wide at low tide and two miles long – under a dome of bright blue sky framed by undulating green hills. And not a development in sight, thanks to the National Trust which owns the surrounding area.
Woolacombe itself is less gentrified than your Padstows or Polzeaths, certainly, but all the more charming for it. The affluent second-home-owners are refreshingly absent and it’s much less expensive, too. There’s no chance of paying £16.95 for Rick Stein’s cod and chips here.
We stop for lunch instead at Fudgies Bakehouse, close to the seafront, where you can feast on fresh pasties and homemade ice-cream for less than a tenner a head, followed by beers at Bar Electric with a sun terrace and views across the beach.
Our base for the week is Willingcot, a collection of timber-clad eco homes in a lush green valley two miles inland from Woolacombe. Perfect for families, there’s acres of space, a contemporary open-plan sitting room and kitchen area with outdoor decking and seating where you can watch the children explore the expanse of greenery it’s set in.
Close to the house is a bridle path that used to be the old railway line; cutting through pretty countryside, it’s handy for cycling or walking to all the local bays. We follow it into Ilfracombe, less gentrified than Croyde and noticeably less busy than Woolacombe, but worth a visit for its Victorian harbour and, depending on your taste, Damien Hirst’s striking 66ft-high sculpture, Verity, a pregnant woman with sword raised high, her exposed skull and foetus clearly visible. For tea and cake, and splendid views across the harbour, the Lime Kiln café is a handy pit stop.
Fifteen minutes down the road is Braunton with a pleasant high street lined with boutiques and cafés. Beyond the village, you can follow the river Caen from Velator Quay with views across Braunton Burrows, a Unesco biosphere reserve due to the rarity of plant and insect life here. You may well spot, as we did, a large and rather hostile-looking herd of cattle, whose grazing helps maintain the dunes’ natural habitat.
The next day we strike out for nearby Putsborough, taking a path from the beach up to the top of the hill and then following the South West Coast Path high above the sea. A patchwork of green fields stretches out behind us and either side is the glittering, panoramic sweep of the ocean as we head around the rocky headland of Baggy Point. We end up at Croyde, another bay that’s a surfer’s paradise, although the chief draw for us after a long trek is a pint in the much loved local pub, the Thatch.
On our final day we walk from Mortehoe village to Morte Point where waves crash over the deadly “devil’s teeth”; craggy rocks that have been responsible for many shipwrecks down the centuries. Nowadays you’re more likely to spot seals in these choppy waters – we saw several frisking in the waves below us.
After a long trek back to Willingcot, the biggest treat is a glass of wine in the outdoor hot tub, the perfect antidote for blisters and aching limbs after a blustery walk around the headland.
Luxury Coastal (luxurycoastal.co.uk) offers seven nights at Willingcott from £728 (sleeps eight), including a welcome hamper. A three-night break starts at £679
