The Traverse Wine Coast Is the ‘Napa of the Midwest’

Along the shores of Grand Traverse Bay in northern Michigan are vineyards lined with neat rows of grapevines. But 50 years ago, this land was known for cherry orchards, not cabernet franc or riesling. Now, more than 40 wineries can be found on the Old Mission and Leelanau peninsulas, two narrow arms of land that frame Traverse City, Michigan.

The region’s wine story seems like an uphill battle at first—winters in the area can bring more than 100 inches of snow. But the deep blue bay is the secret behind its success. That 600-foot-deep waters help keep the spring frost at bay, and its moderating effect extends the fall growing season just long enough for European vinifera grapes to ripen.

“We’re on the 45th parallel, like many other major wine-producing areas of the world,” says Sherry Campbell-Fenton, co-owner of Black Star Farms. “The Great Lakes really help give a moderating effect.”

The area’s prime geographic position inspired one risk-taking oenophile to plant the area’s first riesling in 1974. “At the time, all the other people in agriculture said, ‘Ed, you’re crazy, this is never going to work,’” says Kim Zacharias, a certified specialist in wine at Black Star Farms, referring to Edward O’Keefe Jr., founder of Chateau Grand Traverse. His wines helped kickstart a winemaking movement all throughout northern Michigan. Growth came slowly at first—but there’s no arguing that the agricultural landscape has fundamentally been changed.

“When I started in 2007, there were 16 wineries here on the Leelanau Peninsula,” Zacharias says. “Today, there are 28.”

The Traverse Wine Coast—the colloquial name for both peninsulas that encompass the wine-growing regions of the Leelanau Peninsula American Viticultural Area and the Old Mission Peninsula AVA—now counts over 40 wineries.

Many of these estates are multigenerational, with winemaking experience and stories that have spanned decades. At Chateau Chantal, it began with a former priest and nun who met at a parish in Detroit. For Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery, it all started on a honeymoon.

“My parents drove across the Golden Gate Bridge and saw grapevines for the first time. They just fell in love with the dream,” says Patrick Brys. Now, decades later, they’ve since turned the original 80-acre plot on Old Mission Peninsula into a vineyard estate that now spans 155 acres, with 50 acres of vines and 900 apple trees.

The wines speak for themselves. In 2018, Black Star Farms’ Arcturos dry riesling was named Best Riesling in the World at the Canberra International Riesling Challenge, beating 567 wines from six countries. Brys Estate has earned over 500 medals in national and international competitions, including awards at the prestigious Jefferson Cup. Those accolades reflect what the region does best—riesling dominates. It’s Michigan’s most-planted grape.

“You can take this one grape and make sparkling wine, bone-dry table wine, all the way up to the most decadent sweet dessert wine,” Zacharias says. But experimentation thrives too. Mawby, which makes exclusively sparkling wine, produces everything from its bestselling “Sex” rosé to Panther, a coffee-infused sparkler made with beans from a local roaster.

Most wineries have tastings and tours, with some providing full resort experiences. Black Star Farms has a 12-room inn, three miles of hiking trails, and weekend goat yoga sessions. Brys Estate offers table service on a deck built over the vines, apple-picking sessions, and lavender harvesting among its 6,000 lavender plants. Chateau Chantal pairs wines with five-course dinners in its bed and breakfast overlooking sweeping views of Grand Traverse Bay.

The Traverse Wine Coast has something special in every season, but autumn steals the show when the hills light up with color and harvest season brings the grapes in from the vines. Even in winter, many tasting rooms stay open.